What Does Stingray Taste Like? Trying Kuala Lumpur's Unusual Street Food
Forget rice for breakfast - this week, it's stingray for dinner! Alun's been exploring Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia's fast-developing capital, including its culinary delights. We hear all about his experience trying Malaysia's unusual street food, stingray, at the popular night market: Jalan Alor Food Street. Apologies to all you divemasters out there!
Alun also shares a heartwarming, full-circle moment, revisiting an old friend he met on his very first backpacking trip to China; along with a story involving a wealthy Swedish man, an airport lounge, and a Lebanese football team. If this isn't what travel's about, then we don't know what is!
Support the show and gain access to the Lost & Found section. Adam's been partying on the outskirts of a small hippie town in Golden Bay. 24-hours, 200 people, a hidden forest location, and lots of bare feet.
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TIMESTAMPS:
00:00 - Intro
01:23 - Tripology turns 3!
04:26 - Alun's airport upgrade
12:57 - Arriving in Kuala Lumpur
16:00 - Alun's full-circle travel moment
21:30 - Rice for Breakfast: Stingray for dinner!
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TRANSCRIPT:
Alun:
[0:02] Hello and welcome to this episode of Tripology. It's the backpacking show that we all love to listen to on a Tuesday. I'm Alun and I'm here with the ever cartilaginous Adam.
Adam:
[0:16] Oh Alun, that takes me back to my school days. We've got an amazing episode. Thanks ever so much for joining us. Alun's going to be telling us all about the end of his trip where he went through Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur, he's been eating some stingrays or something and exploring some caves and then stick around for the patreon section because i've got a wicked one this week i've just come back from a 24-hour rave in a forest.
Alun:
[0:36] Can't wait to hear about it over in the patreon there's a link in the description you're cartilaginous this week adam because i'm thinking about stingrays because that's something that i experienced when i was backpacking around kuala lumpur that's why you're cartilaginous but today you might notice on the day this episode comes out it's new year's eve tomorrow so hope everyone had a wonderful holiday period hope everyone has a wonderful new year's eve tomorrow that means it's been 2026 years since the birth of christ as predicted by john the baptist was co-opted by the powers that be to get all pagan worshipers who already celebrated the winster solstice on board with the concept of christianity So congratulations to everyone involved.
Celebrating Three Years of Tripology
Adam:
[1:22] But far more important, far more influential, was the very recent, I'm sure you all celebrated, you listening at home, on the 18th of December, the third birthday of Tripology. Yay!
Alun:
[1:34] Very, very cool. Congratulations, Adam. Exactly three years ago, on the 18th of December, we pumped out what can only be described as our firstborn, an episode that very few people listen to, but was very beloved to us. and I would like to personally congratulate you.
Adam:
[1:51] Well, thank you.
Alun:
[1:52] He's three years old now, that first episode.
Adam:
[1:54] Three years old, three years old. Just a little... Tripology toddler uh but if it wasn't for that first episode we wouldn't be here today so you know swings and roundabouts as they say.
Alun:
[2:04] That's true yeah that is definitely true go back and have a listen if you want to hear two people who don't know how to podcast but are very enthusiastic about their own backpacking skills go and listen to tripology takes off the genesis the launch pad by which we've become this beautiful old thing the.
Adam:
[2:21] Audacity the audacity um have you dared go back and listen to that episode in recent times.
Alun:
[2:26] I have yeah and it seems to me like two people just desperately trying to prove their credentials good evening i used to backpack for 10 years straight that kind of thing you can hear me going exactly exactly absolutely.
Adam:
[2:40] Right absolutely right adam.
Alun:
[2:42] Switch your mic on what's a microphone that sort of thing one awaits you if you choose to venture back. But now we're three years older, we're three years wiser, we're three years closer to death. And I would like to tell you about what I've been up to the last little bit.
Adam:
[3:01] Yeah, please do. Because I, much like some of the many viewers, might see the background, your background, Alun, it's a little bit recognisable. It's familiar even.
Alun:
[3:11] Oh, it seems like you might have seen it before and see it every year when I return for my annual visit back to the UK, back to the home of my parents, in order to try and connect familially to take a break from the backpacking that I regularly do. And it is that which leads me to return here and that which will make up the story of this week's episode because I did, after finishing up in brunei sojourned back to the uk via kuala lumpur and it was ever so effervescent and wonderful time let me.
Adam:
[3:45] Tell you about it yeah nice i've been to kl before i was there i might have been there twice actually but not for about 10 years so looking to see how it's changed what your experience of the place was like uh because i know it is it is one of asia's uh sort of fastest growing most technologically advanced and i think most important and most expensive cities.
Alun:
[4:05] Yeah, very fast growing. It even grew a little bit whilst I was there. But the story of getting to Kuala Lumpur was where the journey began. Because, you know, I was in Brunei. I had a great time in Brunei. I've declared that you haven't really traveled unless you've been to Brunei. That's my stance on the country. But I headed to the airport kind of early in the morning, only to learn that the flight was ever so delayed. Now, Now, there's an atmosphere in an airport when a flight's been delayed. Everyone's a little bit stressed. We're in the queue to check in via AirAsia. I have slightly too much in my bags, but I think I can probably slip through with a bit of a smile. I basically check in through my bags. The guy, I say, hey, mate, oh, there's a bit of a delay, isn't there? He goes, there is a bit of delay. I put my bag on the scale as if to say, don't sweat an extra kilo or two here. And he seems to oblige because I know my bag was more than seven kilograms. And he went... Just don't put any more in that. And he winked at me. And I thought, thank you, sir.
Adam:
[5:12] Aha. There is that charm, that charisma, that cartological, what was the word at the beginning again?
Alun:
[5:19] Full of cartilage to be cartilaginous. Yeah. I mean, thank you for noticing. But I, so I got through security and there was another guy in the queue. He's kind of panicked and he was going to everyone in the queue. Do you know anything about the flight? Is it being cancelled? Old he was like really on tenter hooks i do um and he was stressing everyone out i went through to the security area of the airport and there was a guy there who i can only say had the opposite energy to the stressful guy he seemed ever so relaxed he seemed like he was in the know and he looked at me as if to say you're also relaxed and the two of us looked across the security belt at each other like oh you're we we make up the relaxed kind of contingent of this airport and so he looked at me and said i normally only say this to girls whoa but would you like to come to the lounge with me, okay what do you think of that it's.
Adam:
[6:30] A smooth chat up line.
Alun:
[6:31] Yeah it's.
Adam:
[6:32] A smooth chat up line to say to a guy i usually only say this to girls.
Alun:
[6:35] That's how he started it that's amazing i didn't know anything about him what.
Adam:
[6:39] Did you think was coming.
Alun:
[6:39] Me i didn't know what to make of it adam but i said oh you know don't know if you can tell by the fact that the security guards emptied out my backpack and is currently going through a pile of microphones but i'm just a lowly podcaster I cannot afford a lounge. And he said, don't you worry about that. I'm a frequent flyer. I can get anyone in the lounge gratis, free of charge.
Adam:
[7:04] He could have said, I usually only say this to girls.
Alun:
[7:07] But yes. So he led me, mate, all the way to the lounge. And he said, hi, I'm an independently wealthy Swede. What's your name?
Adam:
[7:20] You said you haven't got any ties to Spotify, have you?
Alun:
[7:23] Exactly.
Adam:
[7:24] That's amazing. So what do you think it was? It was your relaxed nature. There was a moment of eye contact. He didn't think this guy needs a lounge experience.
Alun:
[7:35] No, I actually think I looked the opposite of Haggard. And it wasn't that he was taking pity on me. I think it was that the vibe was so stressed out because the flight was delayed. He sensed in me someone that wasn't going to go to the lounge and be like, when's the plane leaving? What are we going to do? I'm causing an uproar. He sensed in me a beacon of solitude and he leapt on the opportunity. I said, oh, you know, thank you so much for this. And he went, it's always more fun with a friend. And we sat there and we just chatted in the lounge. i've now got addicted to lounges i've it's my first and only lounge experience by, i'm dreading the time where i go to an airport and don't get in a lounge because there was free food there was free coffee there was no alcohol because it's illegal in brunei but i was led to believe if it wasn't then there would be there was a swedish guy who was interesting very interesting man we became friends with him and there was also a lebanese soccer team all there in the lounge with us and we we had a ever such a blast mate i'm telling you have you ever been to a lounge yourself favorite.
Adam:
[8:46] Fc um have i been to a lounge i have been to a lounge once so i mean we probably should preface this by saying, There might not be loads of people listening to this show because they're predominantly backpackers or digital nomads and people that sort of live quite frugally when they travel. There might not be that many people listening to this show who have been in a lounge or have credit cards that allow them access and that sort of stuff. I've always thought you know because we do operate in the travel industry and you do see other influencers that are like far bigger than we are it doesn't take long before they get upgraded to first class and they're putting a reel on instagram and all this sort of thing and i've always looked at those and thought yeah i don't know if i'd do that i really don't unless someone else is paying for it of course which in your case they were so yeah i can understand how sort of sitting on the corner of a really hard metallic seat for a couple of hours looking up at the you know all the flight board or whatever it's called and just having to mingle around with all the all the peasants versus getting loads of free food and drink and hanging out with some wealthy football stars and what have you might um be a very literal upgrade very.
Alun:
[9:58] Literal he was an interesting chap as well He had made it his goal to visit 100 countries, and he was currently in the 90s trying to get up there. That's why he was in Brunei. So, don't listen to my last episode.
Adam:
[10:13] Please.
Alun:
[10:13] It was interesting to make his acquaintance. I tried to establish a connection that transcended countries by offering, you know, why don't we get a taxi together out of the airport when we're in Kuala Lumpur, because the city's a long way away from the plane. But once we landed i just couldn't find him i got off the plane i assume he got off the plane before me because he was in business class or whatever he didn't wait for me or i got ahead of him somehow and i didn't wait for him but either which way one of us didn't wait for the other i had to get a taxi into kuala lumpur on my own oh.
Adam:
[10:48] No that's where the carry-on, hand hand luggage the carry-on has actually done you a disservice there because he's probably got a large suitcase i know i'm i'm generalizing stereotyping here and i'm taking a bit of a pump but i would imagine he's probably got a suitcase that's checked in he's gone to the the bag drop back baggage claim interesting.
Alun:
[11:09] Adam i actually don't think i waited for him a baggage claim that's a good point that you.
Adam:
[11:13] Raised it didn't occur to me that he probably had luggage and you were you with your eight and a half kilos of hand luggage just uh walked on out of there and got a cab thinking well i thought it was all right but maybe not there.
Alun:
[11:27] We go so i'm using this uh podcast to reach out if you are an independently wealthy swede who is kind enough to allow
Arrival in Kuala Lumpur
Alun:
[11:36] a tripologist into your lounge thank you very much and i'm sorry we didn't take.
Alun:
[11:41] A taxi together but there I was in Kuala Lumpur I'm looking forward to telling you all about that after this brief interlude.
Alun:
[12:58] So there we are, we're Adam. I'm in Kuala Lumpur. What a wonderful city. Nice to see it again. I did know when I was going, zooming towards the city, that you know those iconic Patronus Towers that all those backpackers know so well? Those two silvery skyscrapers that are bought by the oil company featuring a mall within. We all know them. They're iconic, yeah?
Adam:
[13:22] I know them very well. I know up bar on a helipad when i was there and they were sort of in the distance i took a very i said very famous i mean it's one of my favorite photos i took when i was traveling of some uh some nike shoes some knockoff nike shoes that i got from a tiny shop in vietnam and uh you know like all the people do where they cross their legs or whatever and they've just got their shoes in the shop with the patronus towels in the background anyway this is a different story for a different day you were filled up to the brim with free food and uh you're out and about walking around kail Yeah.
Alun:
[13:56] Saw those Patronus Towers. Nice to see them again. I think that the city itself has built up quite a way. And now, where the Patronus Towers, in my memory, used to stand bold, lonesome in the skyline, now there's quite a lot of things that are almost as tall as them all around them. So that was quite interesting to see the development, because it has, of course, been... Decade since I was in KL. It was one of the first five cities I went to whilst traveling back in 2015. So it's been never such a long time since I was there.
Adam:
[14:29] Yeah, you will have seen this because you also have access to the same Instagram and email accounts that I do. But whenever someone says to us, you know, I've got six months to play with
Exploring Kuala Lumpur's Growth
Adam:
[14:39] or a year to play with, and I don't really know where I want to go. I'm happy to go to South america central america or maybe asia what would your advice be i often reply by saying go to places that are developing more quickly if you want to see them as they are now because europe and north america five years ago and in five years probably more or less going to be the same but asia south america and africa in particular are developing at a rapid rate so even if you go to some cities in, you know, a difference of sort of six months, you will notice the difference. So yeah, I've got no doubt that they are developing at a very, very fast rate. I do like KL a lot. And I know that it's quickly becoming one of Asia's most important cities.
Alun:
[15:23] Yeah, and it will never be as it once was, more than it is now. So get yourself over there if you want to see it in its prime. I won't go on and on about the stuff I did in KL because a lot of it, they're backpacking standards without so much of a story to tell. I went to the Batu Caves, of course, a very important Hindu site where you climb a lot of steps and watch tourists get mugged by monkeys as you go up to get some Hinduistic spiritualism. I went to Bukit Gasing, which is a forest reserve in the middle of Kuala Lumpur. It's carved out a bit of old jungle that you can walk around, hike around and see.
Alun:
[16:01] Most significantly, Adam, I was able to meet up, with the first ever person I met whilst traveling. He's a wonderful, wonderful guy, a Malaysian native, and I met him. He was a teacher at the school that I taught in, in Yangshua. So I basically got off a plane in 2015, went all the way to Yangshua,
Reuniting with Old Friends
Alun:
[16:24] crashed out, went to sleep, and in the morning, I woke up and had breakfast with this gentleman. I'd not seen him since I was last in KL it was such a joy to meet up with him I went and got food with him I ended up going back to his place and having dinner with his family to see someone that you've not seen in a decade and for it to be so much like no time has passed really solidified for me the best thing about travel which is the connections that you make with people and to just be happy for each other he's doing really well he was talking about his life that's obviously changed a lot in the last 10 years we've not stayed in touch online really i just hit him up because i happened to be in town, What a joy. What a joy. And it made me eternally grateful, not just for travel, but also for modern technology, which allows you to reenter people's lives and revisit old friendships like that.
Adam:
[17:20] Yeah, I mean, it's really not surprising that it was completely effortless, that, you know, you just sunk back into the same way that I guess you guys were when you were together. Uh how much time beforehand did you did you let him know I imagine he welcomed you with open arms but um what a wicked sort of full circle moment it's uh you were able to experience with him.
Alun:
[17:39] Yeah because it had been so long I I didn't know whether he was even in KL anymore and I really just sort of a few days before I went to KL shot a message saying hey by any chance are you still in Kuala Lumpur because I'm going to be there and I would love to see you and he actually hadn't been living in KL but just so happened to be back for that month so it was it was really perfect and just a testament to how open and cool everyone is and how much everyone wants to see each other and how easy it is with modern technology to, back into people's lives yeah.
Adam:
[18:15] Did you end up doing a little tour together at all did he sort of show you around go out and eat some food together or something along those lines.
Alun:
[18:22] Yeah he was working really hard so we didn't spend a whole bunch of time together but he did show me some places that would be quite difficult to find or order from if you weren't from kl you know the kind of places where you sort of go it's a bit on the back street you raise a hand and do some gestures and they bring you exactly what you've waved at and ordered and uh i think that it was probably the best food i've had in kuala lumpur it was it was actually just like catfish and some vegetables and a little sort of milky dessert the name of which i can't recall but it was it was very delicious that's.
Adam:
[18:56] Amazing mate that's so amazing uh i mean i imagine that that sort of um changed your entire trip i mean it gave your time in kl completely different meaning it was i imagine it was the highlight.
Alun:
[19:08] Totally. I was there in KL because KL afforded me an easy flight back to London. And to have flown straight from Borneo was going to be more expensive. So why not go via KL? But it was totally worth it to see my friend. And I think that was such a wonderful thing. I was really happy. One food that I can remember the details of that I had was on Jalan Alor. Now, what can you tell me about Dallana Law being the beautiful, sexually attractive foodie that you are?
Adam:
[19:43] Absolutely nothing, mate. Absolutely nothing at all. Jalalalur. I mean, is that sort of Chinatown? Is that the main sort of night market food area?
Alun:
[19:52] It's the main night market food area, mate. Yeah, it's a long stretch of road through Kuala Lumpur where all the food stalls are.
Adam:
[20:00] Yeah. I mean, I don't think I am. I probably didn't do KL Justice when I was there. I can't remember how long I was there for. It would have been at least three or four days because I met up with two different groups of friends. But I didn't even do the Batuu Caves, mate. So I know that I went to the area that you've spoken about. But yeah, I can't remember. There's one food experience I remember in KL, and it was at, I believe, a Buddhist temple that has sort of an outdoor food court. And it's one of those places where you pay a certain sort of standard amount of money. There's loads of different food stalls around the outside. Loads of people that work in KL, in the offices, in the business centre. They'll go there of an afternoon, take a tray, and then you kind of point at what you want and just load it up. And then you just pay for whatever you've taken at the end. But it was exceptional. I really do remember that food experience fondly. But I am very excited to hear
Culinary Adventures in Kuala Lumpur
Adam:
[20:55] what on earth you had, because we did tease it at the beginning.
Alun:
[20:59] Yeah, well, it's the most famous thing you can have in Jalanor. And I'd gone to Jelanore on a couple of different occasions and tried to persuade the people I was with to have this with me, but they wouldn't. So on my very final night in KL, I took a cab specifically in the pouring rain to get to Jelanore to have this thing so that we could talk about it on the podcast. Adam, would you do me honour of lending me your food item so that I can talk
Discovering Unique Dishes
Alun:
[21:25] about this thing with sufficient detail?
Adam:
[21:27] Oh, with pleasure, mate. With pleasure. It's rice for breakfast.
Alun:
[21:35] Oh my goodness, I feel so unusual being on this side of that beautiful breakfast-based rice dish, but thank you so much for lending it to me just briefly. I'm not going to do it justice because you know so much more about food than I do, but this thing really was one of the more unique things I'd ever eaten. It is, of course, stingray. Now, you know me, animal lover, but I can't forget what those crazy little guys did to hero Steve Irwin. So I felt a little bit justified in just having a try of one.
Adam:
[22:12] I think that's absolutely fine reasoning, mate. And yeah, this is a message to anyone who doesn't eat weird and wonderful things when they're abroad. I think it just comes from discomfort, doesn't it? Because, you know, if something is a food, I've always said, if a people or a culture eat something, therefore it is a food. And more often than not, if you're not comfortable with eating something, that's just because the culture that you come from doesn't eat it regularly. So, I mean, by that measure, if you are interested in food and food culture, just be open to it. I know it's easier said than done, but a stingray is definitely something I would try.
Alun:
[22:58] I have to say, on two occasions, I was on Jalana Law with divemasters. And both of them, unprompted, when said, would you like to have a stingray, said, no, I can't. I'm a divemaster. And then went on to eat fish. I don't understand. But clearly, I mean, that was linearly spoken by the two divemasters that I ate with. and who am I to argue? They are dive masters. So, Adam, I ordered a stingray cooked in banana leaf and it came to the table, a sort of quarter of a stingray. I would say, if I had to guess, probably the upper quarter of the right wingspan.
Adam:
[23:41] Okay, I'm with you.
Alun:
[23:43] Is that how you do rice for breakfast?
The Stingray Experience
Adam:
[23:48] That's fine. It's important, important details.
Alun:
[23:50] It was served up with a side of garlic rice and a spicy little sauce that can only be described as a red in hue. The stingray itself was one of the most unusual fishes, if we can call it that, that I've ever had. It was silky in texture, much like a catfish, but it came away from the bone in... Sort of strips lined out now i'll put a picture up on the screen for those of us listening to the video podcast or indeed on youtube link in the description quite unlike the flesh of any fish that i've ever eaten before it really i mean almost looked like play-doh oh that had been through one of those machines that stripes it out as it goes all flat and long if that's a reference that we all get.
Adam:
[24:42] Yeah yeah i mean i'm sure that people are shouting down their headphones someone say string ray um but you mean you mean something along those lines like a cheese string that you've you know.
Alun:
[24:54] Absolutely yeah weird.
Adam:
[24:56] Really really strange um quite sort of flaky though.
Alun:
[25:00] Flaky yes flaky silky stringy and mounted on a lattice cartilaginous bone structure wow yes adam it was really quite incredible fans of the show will notice that my food reviews are much more based in feelings and facts about the food i can't even i don't even want to tell you what tasted like but that whole thing baby was mounted on a bone board that was crisscross in nature and i've never seen anything like it.
Adam:
[25:30] It's skeletal structure was what was crisscross, was as he's described like lettuce absolutely that is crazy yes.
Alun:
[25:39] Latticey crisscross so there's like a hard bone surface and then all the flesh sits on top of that cooked in a banana leaf.
Adam:
[25:49] My god are we gonna hear roughly what it tastes like was it quite fishy because i can describe to you what whale is like we've just load we've just lost a load of dive masters i'm sure um but but is it yeah.
Alun:
[26:00] You shouldn't have eaten that.
Adam:
[26:01] Mate is it um sort of subtly salty does it taste a bit like the sea no.
Alun:
[26:07] It doesn't taste like the sea it tastes like a very delicate fish i would say the texture was even softer than your average fish not chickeny at all and melt in the mouth you some would say.
Adam:
[26:23] Right is it popular is it did you see other people lots of other people eating On Jalan Alor.
Alun:
[26:27] It's the most popular thing. And if you were to ask a restauranteur on Jalan Alor, oh, is there anything you'd recommend? They would say Stingray. I asked several times and that was always the answer. It was also one of the more expensive things on the menu.
Adam:
[26:39] Okay. Well, I mean, I'm really glad that you ate it. And I mean, if this isn't an example of why you should try things that are maybe a little bit sort of adventurous, as people say, because it is one of the best things you've eaten in a very long time. Extremely interesting and something that is of the city you're in. So good on you.
Alun:
[27:00] Yeah. Genuinely, one of those meals that I came away from thinking, oh, I've never had anything like that.
Adam:
[27:06] And it was good.
Alun:
[27:07] And it was good. Yeah. And I think that kind of if food is one branch, cuisine is a branch of art. Art should make you feel something. And that made me feel something positive. Like it was like, not only was that like a good meal, but, But I was very in touch with it, you know. There was no getting away from the fact it was a stingray. And it looked and tasted and felt very unique and unlike the things I've become accustomed to eating. So it kind of jarred me in some way.
Adam:
[27:39] Yeah.
Alun:
[27:40] And I think that was cool of it. That was artistic.
Adam:
[27:44] Yeah, I mean, you know, at the risk of sounding probably quite opinionated on the matter, I do think that even objectively, food and food culture is such an enormous part of travel. It forms such a huge part of travel. Whether you're interested in food or not, or whatever your food preferences are, is not really the point. But in order to experience some parts of culture and travel, eating is a massive part of getting to the bottom of certain communities or experiences. So... Yeah, I do fear that there are lots of people out there that, I'm not necessarily saying you have to eat a stingray if you see one, but you sort of get my point, is that eating what the locals eat and eating what the locals eat where and how they eat them can completely change your trip
Reflections on Travel and Change
Adam:
[28:36] and give you a wildly different experience.
Alun:
[28:38] Totally. I had a very good time in Kuala Lumpur. I was very glad to be back. It was interesting being back in a place as someone different. I'm a very different man than I was 10 years ago as is everyone who spent another decade on a planet but it was interesting to go back to somewhere where I was so green the last time I was there and and to now be me having done all the travels I've been but be back in that city see that guy who was the one of the first people I met traveling it was quite a spiritual experience in some ways without getting too pretentious and la-di-da about it it was it was a real kind of full circle coming of age moment and I was very very glad to have it there's a lot more stories to tell about my journey home there was a crazy experience on the plane back to London that I can't wait to tell you all about and in London I got to meet someone very very special to me and there's a whole beautiful narrative about that that we'll hear in a future week's episode no tale of a trip this week Adam because we're already at time it's a Christmas holiday period And I think that Tales of a Trip is going to be good to visit and have on the show as often as we want to do. But if we've got crazy stories to tell, maybe there'll be some weeks where we
Transition to Patreon Stories
Alun:
[29:53] don't put Tales of a Trip in. Tell us what you think. There's a link in the description if you want to submit your greatest travel story, though. Now we should go to the Patreon, shouldn't we?
Adam:
[30:01] We should. We're going to go to the Lost and Found section. I will leave another link in the description where I'm going to tell you all about why I'm looking so disheveled. 24 hours party in the forest. Don't mind if I do. We'll see you next time.
Alun:
[30:13] We'll see you there.
Adam:
[30:14] Bye.
