Rishikesh: Should You Visit India's Yoga Capital?
Adam's following in the Beatles' footsteps and practicing Yoga in Rishikesh, but what's it like visiting India's Yoga capital? Tune in for a fun and bendy episode... Oooommmm!
The Lost & Found section sees Adam discussing a few travel options for a day trip around the Kerala backwaters, but can Alun guess which option Adam will choose?
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TIMESTAMPS:
00:12 - Om and India Memories
01:57 - Cave Vomit Tale
04:23 - How to Manage Monkeys
05:50 - Rishikesh Spiritual Reset
11:25 - Yoga Class... for the first time in 12 years!
13:57 - Phone Stolen Goes Viral
17:22 - Downward Dog Disaster
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Welcome to Tripology
Alun:
[0:02] Hello and welcome to this episode of Tropology. It's the only backpacking podcast
Alun:
[0:08] with a real grudge against anyone with checked in luggage. I'm Alan and I'm here with the ever meditative Adam!
Om and India Memories
Adam:
[0:18] Oh my goodness back for another week. Thanks so much for joining us everyone. Got a fun one for you this week. I'm going to tell you about my time in Rishikesh up in the northeast it is, one of the most spiritual places sorry mate you're laughing at my um my indian accent there and then the patreon section don't miss out on this one guys i'm going to tell you what i've been up to what i'm going to be doing tomorrow and i'm going to give alan a couple of options and i'm going to see whether he, will choose the same tour that i'm going on tomorrow morning how alike are we a mr and mr if you will.
Alun:
[0:51] Nice like it you started the episode by saying Om, mate. Do you know much about Om? Do you know what it is? Do you know why you said it?
Adam:
[0:59] Uh, no. I probably should know more than I do, which can be said about most things, actually.
But, um... No, it's no, actually, no.
Alun:
[1:08] It's a unit of measurement. It's how you measure ampage through an electrical circuit. And it's also the sound of the universe. Om. The combined sound made by the triumvirate of Hindu gods, Brahma the creator, Vishnu the preserver, Shiva the destroyer, combined all under the bannerage, under that universal sound. Om, baby.
Adam:
[1:34] I've just had a really funny memory, actually, which I'm sure we've spoken about on the pod before. Do you remember when we went to, what were the name of those caves in Bombay?
Alun:
[1:42] Oh, when I was sick. That was, have we ever spoken about that on the pod?
Adam:
[1:47] I think we probably have.
Alun:
[1:48] That was crazy.
Adam:
[1:50] Can we just tell that story very quickly?
Alun:
[1:53] Yeah, go. Do it from your perspective, because I was me, and I was not well.
Cave Vomit Tale
Adam:
[1:58] So we went to these caves, which are, I don't know, are they Hindu? I'm pretty sure they're Hindu
caves.
Alun:
[2:05] Yeah, they're Hindu caves.
Adam:
[2:06] Carved out of the mountainside. Easily accessible by Rickshaw Auto from Bombay. And we went with a group of people from the hostel. There's probably eight or nine of us. And I noticed the echoing, sort of reverberating qualities of the cave when we were looking. They got like carvings inside. You can imagine the sort of scene. and we were standing one of them and i decided with my with my voice to give it a one almighty oh, like that and it was echoing through the cave it was really really cool great great kind of thing to listen to really impressive and then alan tried his hand because you weren't feeling sick at the time from memory you tried your hand at doing it as well and, bellowed you know with you filled your lungs were there and then gave it gave it a go and almost immediately after the sound had finished you, you ran away from the groove, Dived behind kind of like a bush in what I think was almost, not a trench, but I can't remember.
Alun:
[3:11] Yeah, sort of gutter.
Adam:
[3:13] Yeah, and just started vomiting because of the vibrations, I guess.
Alun:
[3:17] Well, I don't know. Or was it an ancient curse, perhaps? I think it was the Mahakali Caves in Mumbai. I just had a little look. The 2,000-year-old caves up there in Mumbai. Yeah, I think, I don't know what happened to me. But, you know, with India, and I didn't get really food poisoning or sick, but that wasn't occasion where for some reason and it was very short-lived wasn't it as well mate.
Adam:
[3:38] Yeah yeah yeah it was a very quick turnaround you just vomited and then you got it out right as rain i think it was probably there was the your vocal cords the way they were vibrating or reverberating or something i think that probably tickled you and you just ended up being sick no i.
Alun:
[3:52] Remember saying to you i was like don't tell anyone i was just.
Adam:
yeah exactly.
[3:54] Sick mate right do you remember that i'll just tell 10 000 people a few years down the line yeah
Alun:
[4:02] I said to i said to you because we We were with a big group, and I was like, yeah, just keep that under your hat, Adam, all right?
Adam:
[4:08] Keep that one between me and you, mate.
Alun:
[4:10] My main concern was that you would go to the group and go, guys, Alan's just been sick, so make sure no one says anything about it.
Adam:
[4:18] I know that he looks normal, he presents normal, but trust me, he's feeling really under the weather.
Monkey Management
Alun:
[4:23] Yeah, I also had to train that group on how to deal with a macaque attack.
Adam:
[4:28] Yeah, well, there was one person in particular who was letting the side down, wasn't she?
Alun:
[4:32] Neyman Manshaman, what was she called?
Adam:
[4:34] Absolutely no idea, but I know she had a packet of biscuits.
Alun:
[4:36] Neither do I, I can't even pretend to remember. Who was it? She was like an English girl.
Adam:
[4:40] Yeah, I want to say Lisa. She had an open packet of biscuits in her bag.
Alun:
[4:45] I've got no memory of you, Lisa.
Adam:
[4:47] Apart from the fact you've got no idea how to manage monkeys. You were very good.
Alun:
[4:52] I said you've got to stand up to that monkey. Because she was doing the classic thing that people do with the macaque, was when the macaque, sort of like a grey monkey.
Adam:
[4:59] Don't grab it by the tail.
Alun:
[5:01] Yeah. It's the most prevalent monkey that exists. There's a macaque everywhere. We even have him in Europe, the Barbary macaque.
10/2/26, 11:22 AM Adam:
[5:07] Oh, wow.
Alun:
[5:08] And it like came up to her and she was like giving her back and being like, no. So you should never do that to a macaque. You've got to stand up to it a little bit, you know?
Adam:
[5:19] I was saying, that could be Hanneman. Don't turn your back on Hanneman.
Alun:
[5:23] Hanneman is a rhesus monkey, I believe, Adam. and what you just said was like, imagine if you said that you think Jesus was a fish you put your different species.
Adam:
[5:38] Let me guess you think that Ganesha is an African elephant do you.
Alun:
[5:47] Yeah African Ganesh you make me sick.
Rishikesh Spiritual Reset
Adam:
[5:50] Dear oh dear so talking about spirituality and Hinduism Rishikesh, Very, very interesting place indeed. Somewhere I've wanted to go for a long time. I was there just over a week ago. Did sort of back-to-back spiritual trips, if you like, Rishikesh, followed by Varanasi. Now, Rishikesh was almost everything that Varanasi was not. It was very calm. It was peaceful. You still get your white people with dreadlocks. Don't get me wrong. Same crowd. Same backpacker crowd.
Alun:
[6:23] Yeah. Wouldn't be India without them.
Adam:
[6:25] But uh but no it's all your yogas and your meditation and your spirituality and your ashrams and all this kind of thing famous for being where the beatles went to stay in an ashram actually.
Alun:
[6:37] Inspired their albums didn't it their sound changed ever so much after going to that ashram didn't it?
Adam:
[6:42] Yeah i did go there it's closed down actually for the time being there are really yeah there are a number of people who are living inside and i kind of snuck down there it's it's down by the river and it's overgrown and, it looks like it's sort of dilapidated and disused and what have you but there are still people who are living there and i was going to climb the fence but then some people accosted me and said you can't do that so i said um, all right that's fine i'll just it's actually kind of it says that it's a tiger reserve or certainly on the on the borders of one.
Alun:
[7:14] It's a disguise isn't.
Adam:
[7:16] It yeah well as soon as i see that i think oh fuck there's probably a tiger around here as well now so you can't say beetles.
Alun:
[7:21] Ashram can you because then the taurus will be there if you say oh there's probably a big man-eating cat here then people go stay.
Adam:
[7:28] Away uh so yeah the ganga of course the ganges the holy river passes through rishikesh and then it's kind of split across the river there's two two main sides tapavan is the name of the uh, one of the main hubs where you would stay i suppose with lots of guest houses and hostels and cafes and things it's much smaller than I anticipated and it's also the sort of place that I'm surprised you haven't been mate.
Alun:
[7:50] I didn't make it to Rishikesh yet. I think that's because I had something else to do. I can't remember. I went from Varanasi. Maybe I came to meet you in Kochi, perhaps. Maybe that's how that worked.
Adam:
[8:02] I reckon you probably went to Bodh Gaya, actually.
Alun:
[8:05] I did go to Bodh Gaya, and after Bodh Gaya, I met you in, not Kochi, what's it called? where we right far on the east ah calcutta calcutta yeah i went from buddhaya to calcutta met you so that's why i skipped, but tell me you know me i like to meditate sometimes on a tuesday i like to do yoga sometimes i'm actually working at the moment on doing the box splits are you yes very.
Adam:
[8:32] Interesting it's not the first.
Alun:
[8:33] Time you've told me every single day i'm practicing.
Adam:
[8:36] Wow and are.
Alun:
[8:38] You getting better about two and a half weeks now i've been doing it every single day 15 minutes.
Adam:
[8:43] Okay and are.
Alun:
[8:44] You noticing.
Adam:
before how's it go.
[8:45] An improvement or is it something some days you're a little bit worse than you were the day
Alun:
[8:50] It's ruining my social uh life because my groin is constantly pulled to high heaven.
Adam:
[8:57] What about the dating scene what about your love life it's good.
Alun:
[9:00] First line that's good opening line it was well put it this way about three weeks ago it was thriving now though not doing so great.
Adam:
[9:10] Uh flipping out um so yeah i thought what better way to enjoy rishikesh than do some yoga and some meditation, i was well aware just before anyone just like you guys listening to this thing are typical he goes somewhere like rishikesh and he does the yoga course and he does the meditation, look i was having some down time and i thought i could basically learn some tools to then take on to somewhere else and i do think.
Alun:
[9:38] That which is good because famously you once told me, you said alan should we meditate by the river i've been meditating a lot recently and then we both sat and meditated and after we finished i said oh you know what kind of meditation were you doing and you're just going i was just thinking about stuff.
Adam:
[9:56] Is that verbatim?
Alun:
[9:58] Yeah i said oh you know it's not um it's not typically you know meditation usually you're trying to have the absence of thought really you're like you know focusing on an autonomous process like breathing you're like alan i think you can meditate however you want.
Adam:
[10:13] I was.
Alun:
[10:14] Like fair enough i suppose.
Adam:
[10:18] I don't know if it's exactly like that but let's just say it was and i um i think that's almost exactly what i ended up doing when i went on just thinking in well you can, you can book these things very easily they have walking courses of course there's lots of people there both domestic tourists uh, you know local indians and then also people who travel from far and wide far and wide around from india sorry within india and then also international tourists that come to rishikesh specifically for yoga teacher training and meditation and they sometimes stay there for months i met a woman who's been there for five months doing what's famous.
Alun:
[10:53] For being one of the places where you can most cheaply do your yoga instructor.
Adam:
[10:58] Course yeah.
Alun:
[10:59] Right it's like a certain number of hours and then you become a licensed yoga instructor a lot of people do that in rishikesh.
Adam:
[11:05] Yeah so there are some very good yoga instructors there some great classes and like i said there's walk-in options you can just usually phone them or flick them a message on whatsapp really really simple to book so that's exactly what i did because i only had about three or four days i knew i wasn't going to put as much time into it as i probably should but i was feeling rather relaxed and spiritual and you know taking me a long time to get to Rishikesh.
Yoga Class Mishap
Adam:
[11:26] I don't just mean literally on a bus that one trip, but somewhere I've wanted to go for a long time. So I booked myself into a yoga class, on the wow one evening and it was they said it was going to be an hour now oh when i arrived at the top of the town, i i called it upper tap of anything i got there signed in there's probably about another 15 people in the class all indian by the way i was flying the flag, not the indian flag um, and yeah and i was i yeah that's right that's what happened i'm reliving it now i I mistakenly put my mat directly in front of the shrine. And they were like.
Alun:
[12:08] Oh, no.
Adam:
[12:09] They were like, excuse me, could you just move your mat the fuck away? There's a reason why.
Alun:
[12:15] A shrine to who?
Adam:
[12:16] The reason why no one else did that. It was actually a shrine to a person who must have not been that old or probably recently died because it was a photograph of a person as opposed to a god.
Alun:
[12:27] That doesn't mean they are dead, mate. That's quite common in Buddhism and Hinduism. is like they so like for example when i went to a temple when i used to go to a buddhist temple in leeds yeah and lama rim posh who was like the patron of our temple we had his little picture up on the altar even though he's very much he's thriving he was doing great by then so they just put his picture there though so maybe it was maybe it was just the patron.
Adam:
[12:52] Well he's holding the newspaper and the date was 1850 so probably is dead.
Alun:
[12:56] It's actually him in a coffin, so i'm right.
Adam:
[13:01] You're wrong yeah yeah anyway um so i moved i shuffled my mat over obviously and then and then we started they did say they announced they were like oh we know it said it'd be an hour but um probably gonna be nearer two is that all right i was like yeah it's one.
Alun:
[13:15] Hour per pose now everyone get into a handstand.
Adam:
[13:19] I haven't done yoga for like 12 years but sure um i famously i do say you know when we first went to india and you we were both there for six months but with a bit of stagger, i i remember saying to people afterwards i didn't do one yoga pose that became like a little you know thing that i used to say and people go how was india i go yeah i didn't even do one yoga pose because i because.
Alun:
[13:40] Adam was uncontented with his time in india because i.
Adam:
[13:43] No no it was great time it just was it didn't unfold the way i expected it to when you think about what you're going to do in india as a backpacker who might live there for six months i just think yoga and spirituality and learning about
Adam:
[13:54] hinduism and whatever else i think that just forms part of it doesn't it for most people.
Phone Stolen Goes Viral
Alun:
[13:57] Yeah no i suppose so instead you created one of the most viral reels in british instagram history.
Adam:
[14:04] Train phone stolen and if you don't as anyone.
Alun:
[14:09] I want to know this right what percentage of our listeners haven't seen phone stolen.
Adam:
[14:15] Yeah well i mean i think it did about 15 and a half million across all platforms and.
Alun:
[14:20] You've got to see it if you're listening to this and you maybe you're a new listener of the show maybe you're like a de-social media listener of the show, me and adam created a reel when we were in india called phone stolen it's one of the seminal pieces of work that you can see on the website instagram.com and um, my goodness is it a good watch go to it is it still pinned on our feed.
Adam:
[14:44] Yeah i'm pretty sure I'm pretty sure it's right at the top. If it's not, it's easy to find because it's got a cracking thumbnail. But if...
Alun:
[14:49] It was covered in local news.
Adam:
[14:52] Yeah, and it was even re-shared by an Italian media outfit on Instagram that's got over a million followers. But talking about that sort of stuff, guys, if you haven't got the money to sign up to Patreon, please, please do us a favour and go and subscribe to our Instagram. It would really help us a lot and us grow. we'd love to sort of share little clips of the show and all that sort of stuff. it just um helps us grow helps
Alun:
[15:15] Yeah i think what you should do is go to phone stolen that reel and leave a comment try and bring it back from the dust you know when an, where big instagram reels go to die in the graveyard of social media virility let's resuscitate it give it cpr come on phone stolen get back into the algorithm son.
Adam:
[15:38] It is after all.
Alun:
[15:39] Our greatest piece of work i claim.
Adam:
[15:40] To fame and i've i've even been recognized in new zealand from that reel.
Alun:
[15:44] Yeah hold on are you the guy that got your phone stolen in church station in mumbai that's me i played uh a robber on that reel so i've not had so much uh people, Come to me about it, but my goodness, what a seminal piece of work. Try and resuscitate it. Get it back. I want Phone Stolen to go viral by the end of this week. Come on, Tripology. There's enough of you. There's 10,000 of you. If every one of you went and left a comment on Phone Stolen right now, it would come back to life. It would wake up and the instrument would go, hold on, there's blood in this yet.
Adam:
[16:19] It's uh it's a funny watch and it was you know did we say that it was entirely scripted we put it together we shot it a few times and it just seemed to work well it was also.
Alun:
[16:28] Shot directed and put together by you i played me on a train and you know i was stealing the phone and as a result i became the source of rage for people in the.
Adam:
[16:43] Cabin public enemy number one they couldn't.
Alun:
[16:44] Believe it a white guy stealing another.
Adam:
[16:47] White guy's phone on a train in india you bastard they thought, some of the comments were mental on that reel there were things like if if you if you don't like india fuck off and stuff people in the comments going.
Alun:
[17:01] Oh great another white guy painting india in a bad light by staging a phone robbing i was like as
me.
Adam:
[17:11] It's not like i dressed up as someone else uh i don't know depending on which way you look at it maybe it was distasteful it's supposed to just be a little bit of fun and there.
Alun:
[17:21] Is and stole your.
Downward Dog Disaster
Adam:
[17:22] Phone, now uh we knew this was going to go sideways because i turned my ac off about two hours ago and i'm frazzled uh rishi kesh mate i was in my yoga class, just to bring you back to some degree of normality i was in my yoga class and if there's one thing i hate about yoga it's downward facing dog.
Alun:
[17:47] Oh i know when he comes.
Adam:
[17:50] Up seriously when.
Alun:
[17:50] You're sat cross-legged on the floor trying to.
Adam:
box split.
[17:53] Meditate and he starts licking around your shins it's a fucking nightmare in it, I'm trying to do the
Alun:
[18:01] Get away, downward-facing dog. Why do you always come up to me like that?
Adam:
[18:09] But of course, we're talking about the yoga pose. And with this class in particular, the yoga instructor was fantastic. Really, really good. But blimey, was he strict. He was even going around. And look, everyone else in the class, from what I could make out, they were doing this yoga teacher training course. so when it when it came to the um the chants and the things that they had to repeat the different moves or or poses in um i imagine it's hindi everyone was saying maybe sounds great sometimes, okay all right well they were repeating it and, he was saying something they were repeating it i was the only one who didn't really know what to say when to say it and all this sort of stuff so i imagine that they had either been there for a few weeks going to his classes or they were on one of these you know three month training programs yeah and he was very familiar with even me actually at one point, he came over and uh whacked me with a stick on my leg so that i corrected the posture the pose and that sort of stuff and, i mean it wasn't soft i'm not sure i hook i'm talking i'm talking about you in response to his tapping.
Alun:
[19:26] Oh i didn't know we knew each other like that.
Adam:
[19:31] Surrounded by other people i mean i'm into it downward facing dog again okay, two hours.
Alun:
[19:44] It feels a lot longer.
Adam:
[19:46] Yeah i would have said it was inappropriate really if i'm honest yeah because, i think i'll be careful with that sort of stuff it was definitely too hard to be appropriate the way that he whacked me but i just uh i took it i just took it and thought you know now i know that that's the punishment what pose were you in do i was down.
Alun:
[20:06] Facing dog when he hit.
Adam:
[20:07] You yeah but yeah i've been playing football since i was five years old hamstrings hamstrings tight hamstrings for me yeah.
Alun:
[20:14] Me too actually and i think that's really common for men of our age you know to get tight hamstrings and it's the problem with hamstrings right I can flex my hips my hip.
Adam:
[20:28] Abductors.
Alun:
oh it doesn't half.
[20:29] And my arms anytime I like you know I think it's nice to do stretches stretching the hamstrings
Adam:
[20:39] Make you feel sick, I mean, there was a geezer at the front. He must have been professional. I spoke to him at the end, really nice guy. The way he was bending his legs and flicking his legs up in the air, his flexibility and stuff, it was frightening.
Alun:
[20:53] Yeah. He's been doing it all his life, probably.
Adam:
[20:56] Well, I don't know quite. Now he's on this teacher training course. But we were sitting kind of not on our tailbone, but kind of the very top of our bum. And he was lifting his leg directly upwards with absolutely no bend at the knee, dead straight, like a ballerina. right up touching his forehead like that vertically upward and i was.
Alun:
[21:15] Just gonna sound that's how um but so um, do you not think though that when you when you stretch your hamstrings, it's like the the pain the special type of pain it gives you does not make you feel like you've been punched in the stomach or hitting the balls it's like a real sickening feeling isn't it.
Adam:
[21:38] Yeah a little bit yeah i totally get what you mean it's um it's not nice because it feels like the sort of pain that you should push through but, it's i don't know i've never had a hamstring snap i don't know if you have but i imagine it's pretty rough if that happens you're on you're on sidelines for about six weeks or so.
Alun:
[21:55] Well i mentioned that i'm trying to work on my box splits and i am do you think i wonder if that is having a side effect of lengthening the old hammies and should we do a little tripological, thing where me and you stretch our hamstrings every week after the episode.
Adam:
[22:13] But not in the Patreon section?
Alun:
[22:14] No, after the Patreon section. The show after the show after the show, baby. Me and you, we hang up the call. We say goodnight to everyone. And then we stretch our hamstrings together. Can you imagine if we did that every week? We'd have long hamstrings by the end of it.
Adam:
[22:30] Yeah, I'm also, you're 31. I'm 37. I'm getting old now. I need to take care of my body better. And I should prioritise my sleep.
Alun:
[22:37] Yeah, you're 37 with tiny little hamstrings inside reasonably long legs.
Adam:
yoga room was it.
[22:43] And all i could think about this whole time was just how bloody smelly and farty the room the
Alun:
[22:49] Was not.
Adam:
[22:50] It it wasn't relaxing it was incense and fart was basically like most yoga rooms.
Yoga and Tourist Encounters
Alun:
[22:54] Isn't it i have a funny thing with yoga because i've always even when i was in um india i was thinking about doing that yoga training, because i think it's nice to be able to say oh you know i'm a yoga instructor hey look at me on tinder and that and i, i um ended up not doing it because i was like i want to be good at yoga before i do the teacher training course, yeah but that's the wrong way to approach yoga like even thinking about it a lot of people said to me you're thinking about yoga all wrong because it's not about how good you are, it's not something it's not a sport that you can like oh i'm the best at yoga, it's just about you might get people who are excellent yogis who are not that flexible at all.
Adam:
[23:39] Well, there was a lady that I spoke to for probably about two hours, actually. We ended up...
Alun:
[23:43] The whole class. We got sat on the same...
Adam:
[23:45] No, no, no. This was... I think it was either a day or two afterwards. But I got sat on the same table as her in this very busy kind of... It was like a canteen-type local restaurant. And I got sat on the same table as her just because we were both white. And everyone else in the restaurant was... And then someone came over. Everyone else in the restaurant was Indian, sorry. And someone from a different table came over and said, do you need help ordering? because if you do I can help you and I mean she'd been in India five months at this point I'd been you know I've obviously been a few times and and uh no like to think I know my way around the food and we said oh no it's okay and he said how do you guys know each other, and we said we don't we literally just met 30 seconds ago before you came over, oh really I think you two look like you know each other I was like what why why do we just because we're both, so funny that sort of shit happens all the time in India it happens in.
Alun:
[24:37] Japan as well I've been seated with other gaijin, you know. Oh, you go over there next to that gaijin. In the gaijin table in the ramen. Oh, we've got a little area reserved in the ramen shop where we plop the gaijin. So, you know, nowhere near the front.
Adam:
[24:54] I wonder if that's because, you know, much like a story I told once, that they feel inadequate in some way that they can't speak to you because their English isn't of a high enough level. So they kind of hope that you can have some sort of conversation and enjoy.
Alun:
[25:08] The evening speaking with other foreigners I like to think that's the reason mate let's do this Mr. and Mr. thing before we wrap it up.
Adam:
[25:15] Uh well that was going to be in the patreon section my friend.
Alun:
[25:18] Well then let's go to the patreon section baby if you want to hear adam ask me whether i would have gone on the same tour as him and then wax lyrical about whether that was the same decision that he expected and that sort of thing if that sounds exciting to you for the price of only a single piece of japanese fruit because fruit is very rare in japan it's only given as gifts you can't really get it in the supermarket it's a real special treat to get some fruit and it's a treat for you to be over in the patreon section the links in the description, come and join us over there only a short episode this week i know you're craving more i know you're thinking, i want to hear more of those guys well you can get over there.
Adam:
[25:59] If you want to hear me talk more about my spiritual journey in rishikesh or any of that meditation malarkey then you can also flick us a message on instagram we'll see you over in the Patreon.
Alun:
[26:10] Section. Enjoy Femme Stolen. We'll see you there. Bye.
Adam:
[26:13] Om.